Making a statement about how those in power in society can control others through what they wear, at the beginning of the Spring Summer 2020 fashion show, Alessandro Michele sent out blank-styled looks of utilitarian clothes, uniforms, and straitjackets, which will not be sold.
What followed was the collection of 89 men’s and women’s exits which were influenced by the idea of freedom fashion experienced in the 90s, and were imbued with a “beautiful cliché of sexiness”. Sheer lace and lingerie style gowns came with deep necklines, fitted skirts revealed slits, paired with opera length gloves, and a pair of velvet trousers were paired with a plissé chiffon shirt, an elongated piece floating from its back. Accessories were inspired by the equestrian roots of the House, top handle bags and pointed slippers decorated with Horsebit hardware, riding crops in the hands of the models “as if they were leaving a club”, Alessandro Michele said. Strapped to the wrist and on the arms, custom crafted lipstick holders, loaded with Gucci Beauty lipsticks. The collection embraced the closing phrase on the show notes: “Fashion as a space of poetical self-affirmation where the desire of the self can shine.”