The collective memories of the design team, known as the Studio, shaped an evocative expression of Gucci today, and tomorrow.
For the many behind the House’s collections of the last two decades or more, it was a moment of reflection that ignited the women’s Fall Winter 2023 fashion show. With the history they experienced first-hand in view, now with contemporary eyes, they envisioned sophisticated silhouettes colored in electric hues and enriched with opulent accents.
As if they travelled the different departments of the House, from the archive to the studio and then the atelier, new and familiar faces emerged from elevator doors to walk a runway that crisscrossed around conversation pits—representing “the collaborative circularity at the heart of Gucci’s creative process.” In the space that recalled an office, looks that evoked different eras and attitudes met at the intersections, echoing the exchange of ideas that occurs in a place of work like the Gucci Hub.
From memories of the 1990s, sensual yet sophisticated silhouettes were tinged with the sumptuous tones inspired by the recollections of the 2000s. Sartorial jackets were magnified, and shirting minimized for a play with proportion. Underpinnings came to the fore as low-rise skirts accented with narrow Horsebit belts made way for G-embellished stocking bands to peek out, while see-through sequins and sheer fabrics revealed the lingerie beneath. Adding a new chapter to heritage tailoring, coats were accented with saturated stoles or crystal embroidery.
A trapezoidal and Horsebit-adorned handbag from 2003 returned to the runway, this time interpreted in a strong color palette and padded, shearling, or crystal-embellished materials. The Jackie 1961 also appeared in its most original silhouette, crafted in two tones of soft leather. Rubber-soled loafers alternated with kitten heels and furry ski boots while exaggerated cocktail jewelry, finger-tip gloves, GG belts, and colored visors were proposed to complete the looks.
Set to a recognizable yet unfamiliar soundtrack and surrounded by seats upholstered with Gucci's environmentally conscious and innovative material Demetra, which is 70 percent plant-based, the show wove together the myriad narrative threads that pulse throughout Gucci. It was an exuberant dialogue between creative visions, punctuated with a bow from the full design team.
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