THE HORSEBIT

The horsebit was first written into the house vocabulary in the Fifties, used on heavy tan leather saddle-stitched handbags. Since then, the horsebit has been both miniaturized and maximized as hardware; luxuriously schemed into embossed or burned-out surfaces on leather suede and velvet; turned into repeat patterns printed on silk and sculpted into the components of precious jewelry.

The horsebit played a crucial role in marking out the Gucci loafer as a time-traversing design classic. The snaffle was introduced as a decoration on the soft and comfortable brown or black leather Gucci men’s moccasins in 1953. They graced the feet of Clark Gable, John Wayne and Fred Astaire, and when women's versions appeared in 1968, became the choice of sophisticated women looking for a luxurious kind of comfort. The shoes became favorite everyday wear for elegant women, such as Lauren Bacall.

In new times, Frida Giannini looks at the horsebit with fresh eyes. She might take the prints of interlocking, squared-off bits, of the highly fashionable red and blue Gucci pattern used for shoulder bags, shoes and silk blouses in 1969-1970, transform them in and project them, in mini-form, onto flowing dresses or blown up to exaggerated scale on travel-totes. With new style, a new feminine touch, that counts as the current installment in the long-running serial of Gucci design.